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Thread: Windshield Frame removal on a YJ

  1. #1
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    Windshield Frame removal on a YJ

    I want to swap windshield frames, any tips, can those hinges be removed by hand or are air tools needed. Gotta start someplace.

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    good question since i've been trying to remove my windshield bolts to install spotlight mounts. i'm at the risk of stripping the torx pattern.

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    You can try using an impact tool and good quality torx bits - this works a lot better than a socket (at least for me). You're liable to get the following results:
    • The bolt will come out
    • The torx splines will strip
    • The bolt will spin

    If the splines strip, I use a 5/16 carbide bit to drill the head off the 5/16 bolt. The bottom bolts (the ones going into the tub) have a nut on the inside of the tub and they're held in place with factory applied seam sealer, and if you drill out the head, you can punch the remainder into the tub. The upper bolts go into captive nuts in the windshield frame and if you drill the heads off them and want to remove the stud, you can do that by welding a nut onto it - this loosens the bolt and allows you to remove it.

    If the bolt spins, you can drill the head off as I described above or you can struggle to get a wrench on the nut under the dash and then wait for the splines to strip.

    When replacing the hinges, I make two "captive nut pads" out of 1/4" material. I use one "pad" with threaded holes for the side, and one for the front. I find this easier than struggling with a bunch of nuts - the pads are easier to position with a magnet.

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    Will appling some heat to the bolts help, or a waste of time.

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    - weld a nut to the screw and take it out with a socket.

    - get a good quality torx bit, match it up with the screw and give it a few good wacks with a hammer to seat the bit into the torx screw. Then use uniform pressure using a ratchet to remove the screw. I used this method and was successfully able to remove all screws from a '95 yj windshield just last week.

    - If you strip the torx screw, grind a slot in it and used a slotted ratchet bit.

    Good luck, hopefully they come out for you.
    Paul
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    Rockspyder4x4, Krawlerz Off-Road Enthusiasts, Central Ontario 4x4, Canadian Nissan Truck Club, London & Area Jeep Owners Club, Tri-city Jeep Club, and Ontario Federation of 4wd Recreationalists

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    oh yes, and heat is good...acetylene torch though...anythin like propane/butane for instance is a waste of time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zeigstock2 View Post
    Will appling some heat to the bolts help, or a waste of time.
    The only application of heat that I've had any luck with is with a welder, and that's only on the bolts that go into the captive pad inside the windshield frame. Applying heat to the bolts going into the tub will generally only loosen the bonding to the seam sealer and allow the bolt & nut to spin easier. I've removed quite a few seized bolts of various types and the method I described earlier has given me the best success rate and left the least amount of damage to the vehicle. You'll need to sharpen the bits a couple of times to take out all the heads, but they will come out. Then if you want to save the windshield frame, it's a lot easier to work on it when it's on some saw horses rather than on the jeep. I use a slightly different method for removing the remaining bolt pieces. There's still a piece of the bolt sticking up above the windshield frame, and I place a washer over this and weld the washer to the bolt, then I weld a nut to the top of this. It's easier to weld the washer to the stud than trying to weld a nut through the small hole - I get a much better bond to the washer, then it's easier to weld the bottom of the nut to the washer. Again, I would try the impact gun first, then drill out any remaining bolts, and finally use a welding method to remove the studs if I wanted to save the frame.

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    I used a propane tourch on mine and had great luck, just left it on them for about a minute or so per screw and it worked great. just wait a minute or so after heating them then try them, if it feels like it is going to slip re-heat. I also did the same thing to remove my door hinges. I replace them all with staineless hinges and stainless hardware. patience is the key.

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    Impact drivers are your friend here. A quality Torx bit, like a Mac, SnapOn, or Maximum (CTC) bit on a impact driver will give you the best chance of getting them out without stripping.

    If they strip, don't bother with cutting a slot. It had 6 faces and stripped, trying with 2 will do nothing but waste time. Go directly to drilling, or welding a bolt to the head. Surprisingly this works quite well with press-in wheel bearings too.
    ....-Noltz
    '91 Frankenheep Edition. 4.0, 4" BDS, Richmond 8.8, 35" KM2's, Titan 12k, ... gone.
    '95 4Runner SR5. Air-Lift bags, OBA & 8K Winch, DD... gone.

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