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Thread: 87 yj build with 350 chevy

  1. #21
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    Why is chevy so popular? I would stick with similar brand. Find a dodge 3/4 ton with a 360. D60's front and rear
    EdmCharger

  2. #22
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    There are a couple of reasons not to use a Dodge engine. The most notable is that Dodge auto trans are all far too long, and you end up with the engine mounted too far forward. The second reason is they are a wiring nightmare. Third would probably be that they are not supported terribly well with aftermarket parts. I would consider myself an accomplished engine swapper, and I DID get started down that route, but abandoned it.
    If you look on Novaks site, while they make mounts etc for just about any engine combo into a Jeep, thier findings in the long run, lead back to the SBC as being the easiest and best all round fit, and as whe all know, the parts swap, crank/cam/rod/manifolds etc combos are vertually endless.
    I DID own a 5.9 Dakota 2wd, shortbox std cab that ran mid 13's bone stock, with just slicks. ( they came stock with a 60, 3:92's and a Detroit locker) and I did also own a bunch of HP Dodges back in the late 60's..340's, 440's and a Hemi..all great streetfighters to be sure, but they blow up real good, and cost a fortune to fix.
    As far as swapping in 60's..or any other full size axle goes,The originator of this thread stated, first, he intends to drive it on the street. Unless you plan on spending a ton of money narrowing the housing and billet axles, or cobbling up some dumb flairs.errrr..not such a good idea??
    His thread also states that this is his first swap, so I imagine his toolbox is probably a bit limited, and so is his budget, so with the KISS principal in mind??
    As far as the diff questions go, a mild V8 will spit a 35 pretty quick, so swapping it out should be a priority. A stock 30 front however, given it isnt always in use, and its decent..(not great, but decent) chunk, swaping it for a 44 could wait until he finds one.
    The 8.8 is cheap, plentiful, stronger than a 44 (jurys out on that, but?) is the right width, with the right bolt pattern and disc brakes.

  3. #23
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    did this swap about 1-1/2 months ago...complete drivetrain outta 92' silverado..used ford 9" and hp D44...running 38's... 8.8 is nice but he said he plans on beating it! The 30 might handle light wheelin' with a 350 but beating it? It'll break! Then you're back at square one! If your going to drive it on the road just get mudflaps and wider flares... get it done all at once so you don't have to make drive shafts over and over again... made that mistake too! Rad will be an issue but a stock one from a chev can be made to fit but you might have to use an electric fan....fuel pump will be an issue (if you go TBI) - but u can make the stock chevy one work...

  4. #24
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    I'm kinda doing the same bulid on a 90 with coil conversion and 33" mt's. difference is that i went with a stroked 5.0 from a mustang. i'm converting it from carbed to fuelie. as for the drivetrain, it will see mostly street with some mild offroading (i have another trail truck). i ended up using the advance adapters mounts, which actually have a ton of adjustment. also using a modified ax15 with a stock np231 w/aa super short sye. what i found to work out well for me for axles was an 2001 8.8 in the rear redrilled for 5 on 5.5 bc and a front d44 narrow track from a grand waggy with f150 rotors for a 5 on 5.5 front. this keeps the pumpkin on the driver side, obviously different with a chevy drivetrain.just my .02 worth.
    Shawn

  5. #25
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    Have seen one done with a 5.0 and stick. The owner told me he just bolted the trans to the Ford bellhousing. It was an older CJ, so I'm not sure what fits what. Back in the 80s a lot of guys used Ford Toploader trannys bolted to Dana 20 cases, which gives you a super strong trans and decent ratios. Dont know that I'd wanna put any horseys to an AX15 though. Why switch to injection? Carbs work fine offroad, as long as you stay away from Holleys, and even they work ok if you convert them to "offroad" float bowls.
    Just seems to be a whole lotta work without a whole lotta gain. Your .02 is valued, by the way.
    The disadvantage I always found with AA stuff is mostly price, and a catlogue you need a lawyer to decipher, and very unhelpful phone service. The advantage to the Novak mounts is that they adjust in every direction, up/down and sideways. They dont sell via dealers either, only direct to the customer. The guy on the phone owns the company.
    I also found Ruffstuff Fab the same way..excellent service, bulletproof (literally) parts.
    I used their 8.8 cover, which works as a strenthening member as well, and what they call a simple swap kit, all excellent fit and super heavy duty ballistic grade steel. Downside is shipping time from Sacremento, but I got screwed up with CanadaCustoms

  6. #26
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    well, first of all, i hate carbs. it's old technology. i'm an automotive electronic diagnostic tech and a carbed engine was just too easy to do. i'm extremely well versed in vehicle electronics so using a carb seemed like a backwards idea. also this jeep will need to pass emmisions. i know some carbs work well offroad, but most carbs are no match for an efi setup when it comes to off camber performance. the engine came out of a 12 second mustang allready setup with the correct intake/injectors/tb/cam/ecm etc, why screw with a working combination. as for the ax15, i'm quite satisfied it will stay together, it wont see much offroad and i dont beat the piss out of my street vehicles. also,i had the trans rebuilt with aftermarket r154 internals. keep in mind this yj is just a driver, mostly just highway, fartin around town and maybe some light wheelin in and out of campsites. i have a trail truck that will take the abuse if i feel the need, this one is not for that. i'm just tired of having a lifted jeep on 33 or larger tires needing to downshift into 3rd gear to maintain 100kph on a small hill.

  7. #27
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    a few shots.....





  8. #28
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    Nice install and great detail, once you get the wires bundled. I am also a detail nut, and even my wifes car is detailed to the max, always. I agree with you re the fuel inj being more todays news, but not so much on the reliabilty side. Back in the 70's and 80's, I raced 4x4's..thats right kiddys..there used to be a racing series in Ontario..and trail rode some of the tuffest places, and never finished worse than top 5 in any competition, with a 4bbl. I also have to add, that I never broke a lot of parts, in either my Chev P/up, or my Toyota p/up (with Buick V6) on 38's..come to think of it, I never broke the Toy at all, it just rusted away. Whe used to run the Etobicoke Creek, behind the airport, in the spring, breaking ice with the grille, and water over the hood, and 8 feet deep in places. If you stopped, you where fawked. I stopped wheelin because I got a family, the trails disappeared, and the economy went fubar. Anyway, I'm an old guy (59) and can fix and tune a 4bbl in my sleep. I totally understand injection..Hilborn or electronic, but dont like it, because you cant fix it on the side of the road

  9. #29
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    there is no engine wiring at this point. the harness thats sticking out and loose are all the wiring that needs to be run to the ecm. the pics were a mid wiring pics. i do agree that a properly tuned carb does work well. the ford ecm and wiring is a simple setup, and have proven to be very reliable. there is really no difference from a reliability standpoint between this setup and a carbed gm 5.7 w/hei. the issues that seem to crop up are pretty much the same on both.. ie, fuel pumps fail, ignition modules fail, distributor pick ups, ignition coils..etc. yes there is obviously more complexity in a mpfi system, but its usually the basics that cause it to fail, and in either case can and will leave you stranded. now if i was to start this project with an engine built in the last 10 years, i probably would have gone carbed due to the complexity of an obd2/canbus setup. the original plan was to go with a 2007 6.1 hemi.
    in this case i would have carbed it. there is an aftermarket plug and play ignition system and intake designed to carb a new hemi.
    thanx
    shawn

  10. #30
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    Met a guy last summer with a Hemi in a YJ. Was just about the nastiest chunk O poo I think I've ever seen,,Grapes hangin off the welds etc, and, as always, the frikin engine so far forward, he had to mount the rad in front of the support, and add about 4 leafs to the springs. New Hemi's are not really a great swap, and are "fly by wire" ie, no mechanical attachment to the gas pedal..its electronic. The guy told me he had to send his harness to someplace in the US to get it working..SIX times, before it actually worked.
    As far as reliabilty goes, and runnin in the wet and mud goes, its pretty easy to keep a carbed small block with HEI tickin along, just by making a cover for the distributor out of an old tupperware container and a tube of Dialectric grease, and a snorkel leading into the cab, attached to a huge honkin filter box off a HD truck. All the parts you need for spares..ie, module, pole piece, coil, fit in the glove box (or your pocket) I personally never had any issues with floats causing any side hillin problems or vertical problems either, except with Holleys.
    I sort of guess I am blessed, in that I have always had a "feel" for the machine..what it wants, what it needs, and how hard to push it, and when to back off, as to not break it. Plus, since I dont drink, I never let the beer do the driving..LOL.
    Any engines I have blowed up, have been on the dragstrip (and that has been quite a few) with blowers and on alcohol or Nitro, so ya know what you're in for before you push the start button. Ya kinda strap yourself in, and pull the pin on a hand grenade.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by GOT MUD View Post
    This is my first build so if anyone has helpful hints or parts that would be great. I am starting from the ground up and planning to use ford 9 inch axles unless I come across something better, I also plan on putting in a chevy tranny and transfercase. All I have that I am using is the frame and the body so if any of you guy's can help me out that would be great!!!
    try finding a 77 to 79 ford 1/2 ton or bronco. dana44 front, 9 inch in rear. both real strong diffs.most come with 350to 355 gears.also a ford bronco in these years. use gm 350 auto trans. look for gm 241 transfer case[drives side take off. if you narrow the housings axles can be shortened / resplined in brantford at chatterson machine. good guy, reasonable.done this 10 years ago. good luck! bubba

  12. #32
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    I"m running a 305ci a 5 speed tranny from a S10 (which was mated to a 4.3L)& runnig a Ford NP205 (which i got an adaptor made at work).Axles are out of a 78 bronco which the on the front axles the spring perches will line up were the cast meets the tubing so you can even run leafs the rears preaches i just cut off and welded new ones on to line up with the springs
    what can i say i got I got a jeep body and a jeep frame ,the rest is ford,chevy

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