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Thread: 4600lbs GVWR / 4600lbs+ GVWR annual inspections

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    Is it the same form different checkbox? Or is it different form?
    My recollection is that it is a different form....it has been so long since I have looked at an under 4500 KG safety that I'm not 100% certain but I do remember it being another form altogether....something may have change since then....who knows? Anyway, just go back to the shop and they should be able to make it right.

    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    I will see about the yellow sticker. Once I get around to welding a trailer up for the Jeep I will be pulling that so I will at least at some point need the sticker anyway.
    Remember that you need the yellow sticker regardless of whether you tow or not for your truck to be legit, legally speaking.

    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    Now to stir the pot some more:
    Trailers...... what are the trailer brake requirements?
    Under 7000 LBS, you only need brakes on one axle....but put them on both....you will have much better braking performance. Over 7000 LBS, brakes on all axles.

    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    I will be constructing (or buying if I can get what I want at the right price) a trailer to pull the Jeep from home to wheeling location to home again. When I built the flatbed I went ahead and made sure I had all of my wiring done for a 7 wire plug/socket. It is suitable for electric brakes. I am however unsure if electric or hydralic surge brakes are better for my application.
    Personally, I hate surge brakes. Too expensive and too many mechanical issues - usually, as aresult of sitting around too much. I also can't stand having to get out and pin the master (lock out the brakes) when reversing with a heavy load.

    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    I hate the way you hit electric brakes and no matter how hard you hit the brakes on the pedal it pulls based on your setting. Tapping the brakes makes the trailer yank you back but if you hit the truck brakes hard you are usually not heavy enough on the trailer.
    That just means you have a chincy brake controller. A quality proportional inertia brake controller will eliminate those issues altogether. I use a Prodigy P3 and couldn't be happier. The brakes are as smooth as silk. Stay away from the timed style junk. They are just that - junk. From your description of how trailer barkes have been working for you, you are using a cheap timed style controller. Keep it as a spare in the glove box....it will perform the best there! Get yourself a good controller and you will be set. At the higher end, look to a Maxbrake or Brakesmart. These units reference hydraulic pressure from the vehicle brake system to modulate power. They are very expensive but they are the best. IMO, a P3 is the next best thing and significantly less expensive.

    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    Surge well you can adjust to your weight and be done with it. Well as long as you have traction with the tow vehicle. Slippery rainy or snowy roads make surge almost useless in some cases.
    Another good reason to stay away from them. Leave the surge brakes on the boat trailers.

    Quote Originally Posted by EXRACER#2 View Post
    What are everyones experiences? I have only electric expereince.
    Electric for the win. Simple, safe, economical, easily user servicable. And they work perfectly with a quality controller.
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  2. #42
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    I have experience with both, and for an application you're describing, towing the Jeep, I would definitely reccomend electric. They can be adjusted to suit and once you get used to them, work perfect. Surge on the other hand have their downfalls. Great for boat trailers (in and out of the water), but when reversing, can be a real pain. You have to get out and activate the "by pass" if there's any resistance at all (mud, going uphill). Otherwise they just keep applying harder and harder.
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  3. #43
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    Thanks for the input on the high end electric controllers. Never knew they existed.

    Two more questions.....

    How much is one of these big dollar controllers?

    Do you need special electric brakes to go with these or will any electric brake setup work? I ask because I might end up welding up my own trailer specific to the YJ and wheeling trips. If so I might be going with a Princess auto axle package depending on pricing.

    I am also looking at used trailers but some people think their trailers are gold plated and the others look like they have all of their useful life expended already.

  4. #44
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    Electric brakes are electric brakes. Any controller will run them. There are no compatibility requirements among the different brands. The only exception is electric over hydraulic brakes which you don't usually see until you get to much heavier rated trailers. Some of the high end brake controllers will run both.

    Maxbrake is around $400. I don't know what a Brakesmart is going for these days but they used to be slightly more than a Maxbrake. You should be able to pick up a P3 for between $115 - $150. They crop up on ebay for even less.

  5. #45
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    I just got my yellow sticker last month, and I paid $120 for it. He usually charges $150, but my truck just got plated in June, and we have a mutual friend so he gave me a break.

    Bottom line, $150 a year for inspections/yellow sticker, assuming you don't need anything done, plus a commercial plate sticker, plus an annual inspection/yellow sticker for your trailer.

    I might buy a slide in camper and say FU to the whole thing.
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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by igotafrigginjeep View Post
    I am a little confused by this statement...how does the slide in camper make any difference to the Yellow Sticker thing?

    Or is it just a personal thing of not wanting to deal with annual stickers for both the truck and trailer and by getting a slide in you would only have to get it for the truck?

    I have always thought a slide in would be nice as you could still trailer your rig behind you and still have a decent place to sleep...plus with some of the new slide in's the are really nice and big and sleep up to 6 with fold out beds and slide out dinettes (although it wouldn't be the most comfortable with all 6 in it - but it is just sleeping).
    A slide in camper makes you an RV, which are exempt. Kinda stupid, how does extra weight all of a sudden makes you safer? The RV industry in the states is likely behind this. If the trailer is light enough, you won't need a sticker, so voila, no stickers needed. BUT....what happens when you remove the slide in? Are you gonna drive with it all the time?

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by MUD DAWG View Post
    BUT....what happens when you remove the slide in? Are you gonna drive with it all the time?
    EXACTLY. That is a problem that only a 1 ton dually would have since all other pick ups are under 4500 KG manufacturers GVWR. But in this case, it would directly apply to the OP.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    EXACTLY. That is a problem that only a 1 ton dually would have since all other pick ups are under 4500 KG manufacturers GVWR. But in this case, it would directly apply to the OP.

    But hes gotta flatbed, so maybe he can install a toilet and a microwave, and register it as an RV

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